The nearly 50 physical shows that made up Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023, which included the typical big-ticket draws like Prada, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, and Bottega Veneta, among others, came to a close on Monday in the fashionable Italian city.
Glenn Martens, the creative director of Diesel, grasped the opportunity to start things off strongly as this season’s premiere, his fall 2023 offering, had a risqué soundtrack and a backdrop of a mound of 200,000 boxes of Durex condoms.
British designer Maximilian Davis debuted his sophomore collection for Ferragamo at the third leg of fashion month, following his acclaimed debut at the house in September 2022. French creative director Matthieu Blazy debuted his third collection after his previous two saw nearly universal critical acclaim.
Ferrari appears to have a permanent home at Milan Fashion Week. Pink, oddly the only color that the automobile brand declines to give automotive consumers, is included in the most recent collection by Rocco Iannon. The hues complement one another well on the runway in striking combinations of glittering outerwear, puffy utility vests, and quilted skirts. Moreover, knitwear with shredded and intarsia patterns featured pink as an accent. Sparkling red jackets and quilted pants in the shape of jodhpurs were manufactured from a novel fabric created using the proprietary Q-Cycling method, which transforms used tires into usable fibers.
Meanwhile, Andreadamo, Durazzi Milano, and Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi, who presented on February 26 with the help of Dolce & Gabbana, are three sources of the city’s expanding pool of new talent.
The Italian design giants provided practical pieces to update our everyday uniform; from Alberta Ferretti’s fitted separates and worn-in duster coats to Prada’s vibrant midi skirts and crewneck sweaters. Kim Jones’ profoundly nuanced eye made even Fendi’s androgynous workwear and take on the skirt-over-pants trend (a Y2K-era milestone in fashion history) feel refreshingly office-appropriate.
Gucci’s presentation felt more subdued than in previous seasons; in addition to several flamboyantly dressed models in vibrant sheers and furs, some strolled through the 70s-inspired setting in baggy jeans, loose-fitting suits, and button-down shirts, suggesting that the company plans to make its eclectic maximalism wearable for everyday wear post-Alessandro Michele.
The forms and materials that Lucie and Luke Meier have gradually displayed over the past five years were fully explored at Jil Sander’s show. They created scaled-up shapes similar to sharply curved tailoring, rigid, boxy tee-tops, and cocooning coats that resemble long athletic jackets. Moreover, Sander’s minimalism has always been broadly interpreted in its expressive style just as it was at the Milan show.
Designers with diverse backgrounds featured prominently at the Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter shows during a season when diversity in Italian fashion has become an increasingly pressing topic. Here are, in our ongoing round-up, the best of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023.
Take a look at some of our favorite designs from Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023 shows…
See the full collections on Vogue Runway.
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